Teach Your Dog or Puppy

Any Trick or Any

Command in

3 Hours or Less –

Guaranteed!

 

By

Larry Parr

 

INTRODUCTION

 

 

I want to be clear right up front that I do not making my living as a dog trainer.  I make my living as a writer, and always have.  But I do own three dogs (as well as four cats) and I have spent countless hours learning about both animal and human behavior and the bottom line is that each and every technique that I demonstrate in this book for quickly (and humanely!) training dogs works – and that’s really the bottom line.

 

My training methods are Fast and Fun.  You’ll hardly know that you are training your dog at all – until you see the results!

 

Because you can – and WILL – train your dog to follow virtually any command or to perform almost any trick in 3 hours or less.  I absolutely GUARANTEE it.

 

In most cases you will have them trained in far less than three hours and the training process will be painless for both you and your dog.  In fact, you will have your dog following many commands in less than half an hour.

 

When I say “any” trick I obviously mean tricks that are both common and possible for a dog to perform.  You can’t teach your dog to fly by flapping its paws, nor can you train it to sing opera.  Likewise when I say “any” command I am talking about common and standard single-word commands.  You are not going to train your dog to follow a command such as “Unlock the closet door, pick up the bowling ball you’ll find in there, take it out to the car and drop it in the trunk.  That’s a good dog.”

 

When I first presented the idea of training any dog to perform any trick or to follow any command in 3 hours or less I was met with a great deal of skepticism.  But as I continued explaining my ideas the skepticism quickly turned to interest...the interest turned to intrigue...and finally the intrigue turned to enthusiasm!

 

Why? 

 

Because my ideas work.

 

And they are simple to copy.

 

ANYBODY can train their dog to stay...to sit...to fetch...to roll over...or any other simple trick in much less than 3 hours – GUARANTEED.

 

My methods are extremely simple.  Training dogs is not brain surgery.  If I can train any dog to perform any trick or to follow any command in 3 hours or less, then ANYONE can do it!

 

When I say “anyone” I really mean ANYONE.  I want you to include young children in the dog training process.  When I say young, I mean as young as three or four years old.

 

One thing that is IMPERATIVE is that your dog KNOWS – absolutely KNOWS! – that ALL humans in your household, from the youngest baby in diapers to the oldest member of your household is higher in the pecking order than your dog.

 

This is an absolute MUST.  Your dog wants to know what its position in the pack (your family) is.  You must make it absolutely clear – with no exceptions – that your dog ranks last in the pecking order.

 

If your dog knows that it is out-ranked by EVERY human in your household then it will be HAPPY.  That’s right.  Your dog will be GLAD that it doesn’t have the responsibility of running the pack (the family).

 

Also – and this is very important – the lowest dog in the pack (which is what your dog is in your household) will never bite any member of the pack that is his or her superior.  This is important, because ANY dog can bite ANYONE at ANY time.

 

But if you have established a hierarchy in your household with your dog at the bottom, then you have reduced the chances of your dog biting a member of your family to as close to zero as is humanly possible.

 

In order to achieve our “miraculous” results in regards to training we will be using a form of affection training, primarily relying on positive reinforcements and occasionally, as in training a dog not to jump up on people, we will withhold positive reinforcements.

 

Often you will be instructed to speak to your dog in a “firm” voice and to make direct eye contact with your dog, but you should NEVER yell at your dog to train it – and under no circumstances should you ever strike your dog to train it.  If you resort to yelling at your dog or hitting your dog then you’ve lost.  To yell or to strike is to admit defeat.

 

Never be defeated.  Allow yourself to be challenged occasionally, but never defeated.

 

NEVER YELL AT YOUR DOG OR STRIKE YOUR DOG.

 

Not only is yelling a sign of human defeat, but the only things you teach your dog when you yell are to be afraid and to be confused.

 

Let’s make another thing perfectly clear – and this is something that a lot of dog owners don’t want to hear.

 

YOUR DOG DOES NOT UNDERSTAND YOUR WORDS.

 

All of us grew up watching DISNEY cartoons in which animals speak and think like humans.  Your dog does NOT think like you do and your dog does NOT understand human speech. (I know, I know, your dog is different, your dog is special and your dog understands every word you say. That’s fine.  Just don’t let that belief affect the way you train your dog).

 

[However, I will relate the following story.  The other day I wanted Chika, our Shepherd/Wolf mix to come in the house.  She laid down in the backyard and turned her head away.

 

Turning the head away is dog speak for: “I don’t want to argue with you but I don’t want to do what you are asking me to do.”

 

Just then the phone rang and I hurriedly said: “Chika, I have to leave.  You either have to come in the house or go into the dog yard.”

 

And then I went into the house to answer the phone.

 

When I returned to the yard Chika was calmly lying inside the dog yard, waiting for me to lock the gate.

 

I spoke to her in full and complete sentences and I used no body language (such as pointing to the dog yard) to tell her what I wanted of her – and yet she understood.

 

Dogs are amazing creatures and I don’t believe anyone understands them fully.]

 

For the most part, however, your dog understands your body language, simple emotions, and your dog can be trained to associate certain commands and motions with certain actions.  That’s what dog training is really all about.

 

Shouting, rubbing their nose in pee, hitting them...none of this has any place in dog training.

 

So how in the world can I claim that you can teach any dog any command or any trick in 3 hours or less?  It’s simple, really.  To begin with, you will NEVER spend three hours in a row teaching your dog a trick or a command.  That would be far too tiring on your dog as well as on you.

 

Your dog has a rather short attention span.  Your training sessions should seldom last more than 3 to 6 minutes at a stretch without a break.  So if each training session is no more than 6 minutes long, then you and your dog will enjoy a minimum of 30 training sessions, over three to four days, before you have logged 3 hours of training-time.

 

I strongly recommend that you engage in a maximum of 10 6-minute training sessions per day, so your training will be spread out over at least three days, and perhaps even four days.  With that much repetition (consistency is one of the key points in dog training) I can GUARANTEE that your dog will learn ANY trick or ANY command that you teach in a consistent and proper manner.

 

Before we start with examples of any training, let’s begin right now to establish the pecking order in your household – with your dog at the bottom of the totem pole.

 

Dominance is determined by who controls the food. 

 

If there is even the slightest doubt about who is “top dog” in your household you MUST remove all doubt immediately. 

 

Start by placing your dog’s food bowl on the floor, but only if your dog will settle down first.  If your dog jumps for its food the person with the bowl is to turn his or her back on the dog and stand perfectly still, saying nothing, until the dog settles.

 

When the human turns back around with the bowl in hand the dog must remain calm – and the human must make direct eye contact with the dog, staring directly into the dog’s eyes and say in a firm voice “SIT!” – before the bowl is put on the floor.

 

If the dog does not remain calm, but begins jumping at the food again, the process must be repeated, with the human turning around and saying nothing to the dog.  Once the dog calms down, which can take several minutes, especially with young or severely out-of-control dogs, then and only then should the human turn back and face the dog, staring directly and unblinkingly into the dog’s eyes.

 

Vary the person who places the dog’s bowl on the floor.  Allow even the youngest child to do this routine, even if an adult must physically keep the dog from knocking the child down – and make certain the child stares directly into the dog’s eyes and says the word “SIT!” before placing the bowl on the floor.

 

After this routine is followed for three or four days the dog should show definite signs of submissiveness.  If, at any time in the future your dog becomes aggressive at mealtime, this same procedure needs to be repeated; this should not happen often as you have now clearly established a hierarchy within the pack (family), with your dog firmly in his or her place at the bottom.

 

Obviously within this book I cannot give examples of how to train a dog to perform every single trick or how to train a dog to obey every command that anyone could possibly think of, but I am going to present several examples and it should be possible to modify at least one example to fit whatever specific training needs you might have.

 

One more thing before we start.  It is an excellent practice to end each training session by allowing your dog some free time to play and by showing your dog affection.  This serves two very important functions.

 

First, it helps to relieve the stress that sometimes settles over a training session even when we attempt to make each session as stress-free as possible, but even more importantly it establishes in the dog’s mind a positive association with the training sessions, and this is important.

 

Training should not be a huge chore, either for you or for your dog.  Try to end most training sessions before your dog becomes excessively bored or terribly frustrated.  Remember, it is generally better to have many short training sessions than one long session that ends up teaching your dog to hate the training sessions rather than learning the lesson you’re trying to teach.

 

 

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